Mesquite trees are like that one neighbor who has some great qualities but tends to overstay their welcome. They’re best known for providing incredible BBQ wood, making them a favorite for pitmasters everywhere. But beyond the grill, they can be a real nuisance for ranchers and range managers. Left unchecked, Mesquite has a knack for taking over pastures, creating more problems than benefits for those trying to manage their land effectively.
That’s not to say Mesquite is all bad—it does have its perks. It provides food and cover for wildlife and livestock, which can be especially valuable in certain areas. Plus, as a legume, Mesquite has the unique ability to fix nitrogen in the soil, which can improve soil fertility over time. These benefits make it clear why some people might see Mesquite in a more positive light. Still, it quickly outweighs its usefulness when it grows out of control. The problem is that Mesquite doesn’t just stick to its corner; it spreads, crowding out the grasses your animals depend on for grazing. Worse still, it’s a water hog, draining the land of moisture and leaving your rangeland in rough shape.
Before you feel overwhelmed, it’s important to dispel a common misconception: completely eradicating Mesquite trees is neither realistic nor necessary. The key is effective management, preventing them from overrunning your pastures. With the right tools and strategies, you can regain control of your rangeland and establish a balance that suits your livestock and your land. Here are five practical steps you can take to gain the upper hand and restore your pastures.
Step 1: How Many Mesquites Are We Dealing With?
The number of trees that you have in a pasture will determine which control method is best for you. If you have a very light amount, you could get away with some light chemical or manual control. However, if the cover is very thick, some heavy chemical or even mechanical control may be necessary. If mechanical is the only option, it will get costly, so it is best to know beforehand.
Suppose there are more than 400 trees per acre; then a broadcast method such as aerial spraying is the most cost—and time-effective. Depending on the thickness, multiple aerial spraying may be necessary. Also, even though you sprayed, you may still have to remove some of them by hand to get it going.
The two methods of measuring tree density:
- One method involves measuring at least four square areas, each 66ft by 66ft, in the pasture you wish to control. Count the number of Mesquite trees in each area. Once you have the count, calculate the average number of trees per square. Then, multiply this average by 10 to estimate the density.
- Walk at least four lines about 363ft in the pasture you want to measure. In order to keep them in a straight line, have the lines going towards some landmark for you to walk to. Once you have walked it the first time, turn around and walk back in the same line. As you do that, count every mesquite tree within 3ft of your path. Then, when you have the count from the four lines, figure out the average to give you a manageable number. Finally, you will take that average and then multiply it by 20.
With either option you go with, be sure that the different areas you will be counting are in other areas of the pasture you want to control. This spread will give you more overall numbers than just counting in one area. Now, on to step 2.
Step 2: Pick the Best Strategy for Your Pasture
Now that you have determined the number of trees you want to control, it is time for the next step. Here, you will pick which type of control method you will be going with.
There are a few methods that you can use to control Mesquite: the foliar-spray method, the stem-spray method, and the mechanical method. Doing a control burn may be an option, but that is not the way to go in most cases. The problem with using fire is that most of the time, it will not completely kill the root bud, which is what you want to kill in order to kill the tree.
Each method has pros and cons, so it’s best to weigh the options and choose the one that works best for you and your pocketbook.
Mechanical
As the name implies, this means getting rid of the plant mechanically. This method can be with a dozer, skid steer, or tractor (whichever works for you).
The problem is what I mentioned above: just removing the top will not get rid of it. A root grubber or something similar will have to be used to remove the roots and buds so they will not return. If you don’t kill the whole plant, you can expect that the plant will ultimately return in about five years.
The main drawback to using this method is that it can get expensive rather quickly. The price can get high enough to make it feel like you are buying the land all over again. Diesel fuel is not cheap, after all.
Another downside is that when you move the piles of Mesquite around, they will drop the beans, which means they will also be reseeding the pasture for the next go-round.
Stem spraying
This method involves spraying a chemical around the trunk of the mesquite tree. It works best on young trees with few basal stems. If the tree has several of them, the chemical will be less effective and thus less economical.
Stem spraying can be done year-round, but its best results will be during the spring-summer growing season. This time of year is when the plant grows the most and will absorb the chemicals better. The main factor in using this method is the size of the plant. To be adequate, the plant should be smooth-barked and no bigger than 4 inches in diameter.
A mixture of Remedy and diesel fuel is the preferred method of doing this. The diesel will act as a coating agent to ensure it stays on the plant and is absorbed. The concentration of Remedy that you will use depends on the size and age of the plant. Usually, it will require between 15% and 25% of chemicals.
To apply the chemical, you will first ensure that your nozzle is adjusted to deliver a narrow, cone-shaped mist. I discuss the steps you need to take to ensure your sprayer is working correctly here.
Now that your sprayer is set, hold the nozzle within 1 to 2 inches from the mesquite stem. You will then spray the mixture around the trunk from the base to 12 inches up. As you apply the chemical, wet the trunk almost to the point of runoff.
Leaf Spray Method
This method works best on brushy mesquites with many stems growing from ground level. The stems should be no taller than 8 feet.
The best time to use this method is in the late spring (May-June) when the leaves on the plant have changed color from light pea green to a more uniform dark green.
This method recommends a mixture of 1/2% Reclaim, 1/2% Remedy, and water. You will also want to add a surfactant or dish soap to ensure it sticks to the leaves long enough to be absorbed. Another thing that you can add to the mix is a type of marker dye to identify which plants have already had an application.
INGREDIENT
CONCENTRATION IN SPRAY SOLUTION 3 GAL. 14 GAL. 25 GAL.
Leaf-SprayReclaim®1/2% 2 oz. 9 oz. 16 oz.
Remedy®1/2% 2 oz. 9 oz. 16 oz.
Surfactant 1/4 % 1 oz. 5 oz. 8 oz.
Hi-Light® Dye1/4% – 1/2% 1-2 oz. 5-9 oz. 8-16 oz.
Step 3: Timing is Everything
This step is crucial if you decide to use foliar spray. The mechanical and stem-spray methods can be used year-round.
The life cycle typically begins with the tree’s bud break during the spring. It will usually start in the south and work its way north as the weather warms up.
Timing is everything when managing mesquite trees, especially if you plan to use herbicide. Twigs and leaves typically start growing when soil temperatures hit 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, which signals that the tree is actively growing. This growth stage usually lasts about six weeks, depending on the weather, and it’s during this time that herbicide applications can be most effective. Healthy, actively growing trees are more likely to absorb the herbicide and carry it down to the roots, where it can do its job.
Dr. Morgan Treadwell of West Texas Rangeland emphasizes that “soil temperature and soil moisture is key!” She advises that herbicides should be applied to healthy trees that can absorb and properly translocate the chemicals belowground. While the general rule of thumb is a soil temperature of 75 degrees or greater at a 12-inch depth, recent research suggests some flexibility. As long as the tree is healthy and its growth is consistent, herbicide application may still be effective even if soil temperatures fall below the 75-degree mark.
Step 4: Take Action—Time to Tackle Those Trees!
As you may have guessed, this is the “action” part of the steps. In this step, you spray or grub the trees in your pasture.
If you will be applying chemicals, be sure to use the correct amount of herbicide. Too little herbicide will not be effective, while too much of it can damage the environment. The Texas AgriLife Extension service has many resources available to help you in this matter.
If you’re going the mechanical route, make sure you remove the root bud. This will ensure that you kill the plant and don’t have to go over it again.
Step 5: Keep Up the Fight!
Unfortunately, controlling Mesquite is not a “one-and-done” kind of process. You will always have to go out and either spray or mechanically remove trees. It will take many years for you to get them into the stage of control that you are looking for.
Even if they are under control, you may still have to re-treat the area every 5 to 7 years. Spraying the younger trees to prevent new growth is generally easier.
Some other control ideas you can use are:
- Don’t graze a pasture that produces a lot of seeds.
- Fence off areas with high mesquite seed production
- Confine your livestock 3 to 6 days after being in a pasture with many mesquite beans to reduce the chance of carrying them to different areas.
- Leave adequate grass to grow in order to discourage the seedling establishment.
Leave a Reply