Spring is already a hectic time for ranchers, with calving season in full swing and other tasks piling up. Starting your pasture prep now can help take some of that pressure off when the busy season hits. With a bit of work upfront, you can set yourself up for success and make the spring transition much smoother.
The preparation you do now will pay off all year long. It doesn’t have to be overwhelming; getting ahead of things can save you time and energy down the road. Here are five simple steps you can take today to prepare your pasture for the growing season.
Tip# 1: Start with Soil Testing: The Foundation of Your Pasture
Your soil is the foundation of your pasture, and if it’s not right, it can cause problems down the road. Think of it like building a house—if your foundation’s shaky, everything else will be, too. Getting your soil right from the start is key to a thriving, healthy pasture.
Testing your soil is one of the best ways to ensure it is in top shape. A soil test will tell you important things like pH levels and whether your soil needs any extra nutrients. This information will help you make informed decisions about fertilizers and what your pasture actually needs.
Once you know what’s going on with your soil, you can start setting clear goals for your pasture. Whether improving grass quality or ensuring it’s balanced for grazing, soil testing gives you a solid starting point from which to work. It’s an easy step that sets you up for success in the long run.
Some types of soil tests you can do.
(Included in my previous post “Don’t Hold Back Your Soil Test”)
- Routine: This is the basic test you can choose from. It will determine the available soil pH, salinity, nitrates, and levels of the primary nutrients (Phosphorus, Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium, Sodium, and Sulphur) and provide the Basic N-P-K fertilizer recommendations. This test is acceptable for most applications.
- Micronutrient: This test estimates the available levels of zinc, iron, manganese, and copper. You should use this test for specialty crops in high-pH soils where corn or sorghum is grown. You can also use this test to troubleshoot any deficiencies.
- Boron: This soil test determines the level of water-extractable boron in the soil. It is recommended that you use it where clover, alfalfa, or other legumes are grown on sandy soils.
- Detailed salinity: This test measures the pH, electrical conductivity, and water-soluble levels of the major cations in the soil. You can conduct this test if water quality is of concern.
- Lime requirement: This test determines the time a producer will need to raise the soil’s pH to the desired level. It is necessary for very acidic soils where alfalfa or other legumes are grown.
- Texture and organic matter: This is a specialty test for specific applications. It will determine the amount of sand, silt, and clay in the soil. Research or environmental purposes usually require this type of request.
Tip#2: Inspect Your Fences: Keep Your Livestock Where They Belong
Now that you know the pasture’s soil composition, you should inspect each pasture. By doing this, you will be able to determine whether or not there is anything to improve. If any fences need repairs, you can also do that.
Winter storms and possible snow—yes, some people get pretty heavy snow, and it can wreak havoc on your fences. Entire trees or just heavy limbs can fall, making gaps that animals can get through. It would be best to inspect them before you get an angry call from your neighbor saying your cows are at their place.
It would help if you also looked for any sagging parts in the fence and any gaps. If they sag low enough, a cow can jump over them, causing problems. You may be asking, “Just how tall should the fence be?” According to a report by the University of Tennessee, cattle fences should be 54 inches tall.
What to look for when inspecting fences
Here’s a checklist of things to look for when inspecting your fences to make sure they’re in top condition:
- Check for Gaps: Look for any openings in the fence where livestock could squeeze through, especially at corners or along the bottom.
- Inspect for Loose Posts: Ensure all fence posts are sturdy and properly set. Push gently to see if they wobble or are leaning.
- Look for Damaged or Missing Rails: Examine rails for any breaks, cracks, or sections that have come loose.
- Examine Wire Tension: Make sure the wires are tight and not sagging. Tension should be consistent across the entire fence line.
- Check for Rust or Corrosion: Inspect metal parts for rust or corrosion that might weaken them over time.
- Look for Broken or Bent Fencing Hardware: Examine nails, staples, and clips to ensure they’re secure and not rusted or bent.
- Check Gate Functionality: Ensure gates open and close easily without dragging or catching and that latches are secure.
- Inspect for Vegetation: Look for any plants, shrubs, or trees growing along or through the fence that could weaken or damage it.
- Check for Animal Damage: Look for signs of livestock trying to push through, chew on, or rub against the fence.
- Examine Corner and End Posts: Ensure that corner and end posts are braced and stable to prevent bowing or bending.
- Look for Weather Damage: Check for storm damage, such as fallen branches or debris, that may have caused issues with the fence.
A quick, thorough fence inspection now can save you from bigger problems later!
Maximize Your Pasture’s Potential with Paddock Rotation
While inspecting your fences, it’s a great time to consider whether you need to divide your pastures into smaller paddocks. Rotating livestock between paddocks gives certain areas a chance to rest and recover, which leads to healthier, more productive forages. By giving grass time to regrow, you can ensure it stays lush and nutritious for longer, benefiting both the land and your livestock.
Not only does rotating pastures prevent certain areas from being overgrazed, but it also ensures that grazing pressure is evenly spread across your land. This spread helps avoid under-utilized patches of grass while preventing overgrazing in areas that may not be able to keep up. A sound rotation system can make a big difference in your pasture’s health and productivity throughout the year.
Tip#3: Weed Control: Stay Ahead of Problem Plants
Weed control is essential to any pasture management, not just in the spring. If your grass grows, you can bet that any weeds present will also grow. There are generally three ways that you can control weeds.
The first way to control weed growth is to pick the right seed for your needs. Plants appropriate for your soil will be hearty and outcompete the weeds. The presence of weeds typically indicates a problem with your soil. The desirable grass or legumes aren’t thriving while your weeds are. Correcting your growing conditions following your soil test should put a lid on weed growth.
Herbicides can effectively control different types of broadleaf weeds in the early spring while they are actively growing. When using herbicides, be careful because they may also kill any forages you want to keep. Also, you will want to remove any livestock from that pasture before you apply the herbicide so they do not ingest any of it.
Mowing is another option, though it is only a temporary fix. If properly timed, mowing can prevent weeds from producing seed, thus temporarily allowing increased forage production. Mowing can be very helpful in managing weeds in pastures. Still, large weeds have a well-developed root system that makes them difficult to control.
Tip#4: Overseed if Needed: Don’t Miss Your Window
For best results, seed your pastures in the fall, but if you missed that window, don’t worry. You can still put seeds out during this time of year, though you will just broadcast them instead of planting them.
Typically, overseeding takes place between mid-February and mid-March. If you are looking for a couple of ideas of what to plant, I have you covered:
- Option#1: Plant spring oats- If you have cropland that does not currently have any winter pasture, then spring oats are a good idea. The recommended seeding rate is 2 to 3 bushels per acre or 65 to 100lbs per acre with about 50 to 100lbs nitrogen along with it
- Option#2: Ryegrass- Ryegrass is a good option if you have bermudagrass that is grazed short during this time of year. You should put out 15 to 20 lbs per acre by early March. Apply 50 to 100 lbs per acre of actual nitrogen when broadcasting seed.
Tip#5: Practice Pasture Rotation: The Secret to Long-Term Success
After laying the foundation for pasture management, your work is still ongoing. You will need to make a plan to rest your pastures to allow enough regrowth. This rest period is necessary to promote better grazing and prevent any damage from overgrazing. Promoting this means rotating your pastures, which is required. The better you treat your pastures, the better they will treat your livestock.
It may be tempting to turn your cows out to a pasture as soon as you see green growth, but that could not be good for you. Grazing pastures before they reach their ideal height can stunt their development for the rest of the year. Different types of forages will tolerate different grazing heights, so plan accordingly. Various kinds of forages have different ideal grazing heights. Still, overall, it is a good idea only to graze when it is 8-10″ in height.